The Way of St. James, section Telšiai-Alsėdžiai-Žemaičių Kalvarija

SECTION DESCRIPTION:

We recommend you start your journey along the Way of St.  James in Western Lithuania in Telšiai, the capital of Samogitia. Nestled on seven hills, Telšiai is a city brimming with artistic masterpieces, open-air sculptures, breathtaking views of Lake Mastis, and cosy cafés perfect for a refreshing break.

Telšiai is home to one of Samogitia’s most significant religious landmarks – the Cathedral of St. Anthony of Padua, the Bernardine Monastery and the seminary, forming a vital sacral complex in the region. It's situated on the northern shore of Lake Mastis, atop Insula Hill. The site dates back to the 17th century. The complex features a Franciscan Bernardine monastery and church (which was elevated to cathedral status in 1926), along with a seminary, bishops' palace, school, and several other significant buildings.

The Telšiai Cathedral, constructed in 1794, is a stunning example of late Baroque and Classical architectural styles. Upon entering the building, you'll immediately be captivated by the painting of St. Anthony of Padua, displayed on the second floor. This painting is believed to possess magical qualities! The cathedral's most striking architectural feature is the expansive balcony that stretches across the entire second floor.

From the cathedral, you'll descend to the shores of Lake Mastis, where you'll encounter one of the most intriguing structures along the shore – the rotundas. They are park structures dating back to the Roman Empire.

Before hitting the road, be sure to stop by the Džiugas café, located right next to Lake Mastis, and treat yourself to their signature cheese ice cream!

From Telšiai, the Way of St. James leads to one of Lithuania's most significant pilgrimage destinations, Žemaičių Kalvarija, which is also part of Pilgrim Route of Pope John Paul II. It's an approximately 25 km walk. However, if you've spent more time in Telšiai than planned and the distance feels too far, we recommend stopping in Alsėdžiai. Here, you'll find the Aibė store and can stay overnight at the dormitory of the S. Narutavičius Highschool.

You'll only need to walk a few kilometres along the 4603 road in the Plungė district to reach Alsėdžiai. Nestled in the historic land of Ceklis, along the Sruoja River, the town was first mentioned in the Crusader chronicles in 1253 (as Aliseiden, Alizeyde). Alsėdžiai was part of the Bishops of Samogitia estate from 1421 to 1842, and since 1465, it served as their permanent residence and was home to the Bishop's Manor. It wasn't until 1850 that Bishop M. Valančius moved the residence to Varniai.

Take a stroll around the town and explore the architectural complex of the Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary, complete with its bell tower and chapel. The town's current church was constructed in 1793, following the excavation of part of Alka Hill. Also nearby is the Alsėdžiai Hillfort, known as Žvėrinyčia, which features recreation areas at its base. Stanislovas Narutavičius (1862-1932), a lawyer, political activist, and signatory of the Act of Independence of Lithuania, was laid to rest in Alsėdžiai. In 2022, Alsėdžiai was named the Little Capital of Culture of Lithuania and unveiled a new, modern, interactive exhibit showcasing the town's rich history – the Alsėdžiai Cognitive Centre. It displays a copy of the Curonian Treaty of 1253, along with other exhibits from ancient times. You'll also learn about the signatories of the Act of Independence (or the February 16th Act) J. Smilgevičius and S. Narutavičius, as well as notable figures like K. Varnelis and J. A. Giedraitis. If you take a seat at the interactive bench, the Alsėdžiai old man will share the legend of how the town's name came to be.

After exploring Alsėdžiai and spending the night, you'll once again immerse yourself in the beauty of nature as you continue your journey. We recommend stocking up on water and snacks before you set off on your next leg of the journey. As you journey towards the Žemaičių Kalvarija sanctuary, you'll be enchanted by the endless fields, rolling hills, and serene woodlands, all accompanied by the sweet melodies of birds. The old chapels and crosses lining the roadside will also offer a captivating sight along the way.

From the centre of Alsėdžiai, follow Varduvos g. and continue along Alsėdžių g. all the way to Žemaičių Kalvarija.  Žemaičių Kalvarija is one of Lithuania's most significant pilgrimage destinations, which is also part of Pilgrim Route of Pope John Paul II. Every July, the town hosts the Feast of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, drawing large crowds of faithful believers. This historic settlement, nestled on scenic hills, is a place where nature and architecture harmoniously blend, offering a rich tapestry of cultural heritage and natural wonders.

If you still have the energy upon reaching Žemaičių Kalvarija, you can take a walk around the Hill of the Way of the Cross, which is approximately 4.5 km long. The Way of Sorrows consists of nineteen chapels with twenty stations, as the seventh chapel features two stations. The founder of the Way of Sorrows is believed to be Bishop Jurgis Tiškevičius, who led the Samogitian diocese from 1633 to 1649. The exact date of the construction of the first chapels remains unknown. It is believed that Bishop Tiškevičius personally chose the hills and locations for the chapels, carefully counting the steps between each site to match the number of steps Jesus took on His way to his crucifixion. During his first walk, the Bishop sprinkled the Way of Sorrows with soil brought from Jerusalem, deepening the sacred connection. To make the place renowned, he initially named Gardai the New Jerusalem. However, as it didn't catch on, the town eventually became known simply as Žemaičių Kalvarija.

Be sure to visit the Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which was elevated to a minor basilica by Pope John Paul II on 6 May 1988. Take a moment to pray before the painting of Our Lady, Queen of Christian Families, renowned for its miraculous graces since the 17th century. By prior arrangement (via phone at +370 674 20400), you can visit the museum dedicated to the poet V. Mačernis and the homestead of the renowned local historian Konstantinas Bružas. Climb the Žemaičių Kalvarija Hillfort, also known as St. John's Hill, to admire breathtaking views of the surrounding area. The hillfort is located by the Varduva River, where, according to legend, the Samogitians were christened. Upon christening, the Samogitians were given new names, which is why the river became known as Varduva (the River of Names), and the nearby hill was named after St. John the Baptist. Several commemorative badges have been issued in honour of Bishop Motiejus Valančius, Vytautas Mačernis, and other notable figures.

You can also stay overnight.

USEFUL LINKS:

• Žemaitija Tourism Information Centre http://visit.telsiai.lt
• St. Anthony of Padua Parish in Telšiai www.telsiukatedra.lt
• Plungė Tourism Information Centre www.visitplunge.lt
• Žemaičių Kalvarija www.zemaiciukalvarija.lt

PILIGRIM ACCOMMODATION INFORMATION 

Note: The table only lists the locations accommodating pilgrims.